Saturday, April 26, 2014

Chef Garrett Doherty: Not All Black and White

A clean, white chef's jacket is a staple in every chef and cook's wardrobe.  For many, the ritual of putting them on at the beginning of a shift is what puts them in the correct mindset for the evening to come.  Throughout the prep and the service and the clean up at the end of the night, one is apt to feel the starch go out of the sleeves and see the almost unnavoidable splotches on the cuffs, even when rolled up. For Chef Garrett Doherty that is not always the case.

It is not all black and white for Chef Doherty.  He looks just as comfortable in service at The Ruins in Seattle where he is executive chef as he does at a pop up dinner with his own venture, Kraken Congee. At The Ruins, you will see him in that pristine white jacket.  At Kraken, you are likely to catch him and his staff in t-shirts and comfy jeans.

It is all about the food for him and his regulars at Kraken Congee are there for what he knows and what he cooks and not necessarily for the look of the chef.  Or maybe they do care?  At Kraken Congee it is a family and somewhat communal atmosphere where Chef Doherty and his crew dress a lot like their guests.  At his day job at The Ruins, it looks like the guests enjoy a great meal and everything that comes from a fine dining meal.  At Kraken Congee, it looks like everyone's best friends took over the bar and the kitchen.  That kind of formal informal atmosphere equals a line out the door. Their guests are often people who want to enjoy the food with an entire room full of friends.



We realized that was the kind of spirit that we needed on the Board of Chefs.  We need those who show that there are number of different paths to great food and who are not afraid to go a different route.  We would like to welcome Chef Garrett Doherty to the Board of Chefs and thank him for offering his spirit to this endeavor.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Chef Jason Fullilove: Si vis victus, para bellum (If you want food, prepare for war)

A lot of the shots you see of Chef Jason Fullilove will be of the top of his head or of his hands.  He and his crew at the Malibu Pier are preparing for a busy year and likely a lot of what you see of him will be a blur as he zips by, or his forehead and hands as he focuses over a clean white plate.

Chef Fullilove is fast becoming a general in the food culture of the Los Angeles area.  L.A. is a Mecca for those in the culinary arts and it most certainly is not for the faint of heart.  It goes without saying that it takes a lot to just survive in L.A. but he is thriving.  With ventures like the Malibu Pier and events like Fork, Knife, Mic, combining music and food, he is taking command of a his own place and conquering territory in the SoCal area which boasts one of the largest farming cultures in the world, putting it all on a plate and serving it fresh to his guests.



We are looking forward to what Chef Fullilove is going to do.  We are sure that it is going to surprise and delight.  Next time you are in L.A., stop by Malibu Pier until then, you can keep up with what he is doing on our Board of Chefs.  He will be joining Chef Janine Falvo also in L.A., Anjoleena Griffin-Holst, Chef Teryi Youngblood, Chef Roman Baird, Chef Valerie Tyes, Chef Daniel James in working to make 99Knives a force for young chefs and hospitality workers across the nation and he is a good leader to have on your team.

For more information on Chef Jason Fullilove (go here)

Friday, April 18, 2014

Chefs Council: Janine Falvo, Executive Chef, Renaissance Hotels


Chef Janine Falvo, Executive Chef, Renaissance Hotels
Chef Janine Falvo is from Pennsylvania and despite your feelings about the Pirates, the Steelers, or the Penguins, that is a good thing.  A chef who knows the world is a chef who knows food.  Janine has managed to not only survive outside of her born element, she has made each element she has arrived in hers.

Chef Falvo specializes in fresh ingredients and a farm to table ideology that has earned her firm footing as an industry leader.  Having culinarily conquered Florida, Chicago, Northern California, and Atlanta, Chef Falvo is out to take another swipe at California, this time in Southern California (SoCal) as executive chef of the beautiful Renaissance Long Beach Hotel and its SIP Lounge in Long Beach, CA. She will be creating works of edible art from with the bounty of an ocean that is just a few blocks away from the hotel.

We are especially excited that she will be helping us create an organization that will help to foster other chefs of her caliber as well as aid charitable causes in her new community.  Chef Falvo very strongly and proudly supports No Kid Hungry and the Girl Scouts of America. A portion of the proceeds from the things we do at 99Knives will go to these causes.

Find more information on Chef Janine Falvo here.
Join 99Knives on Twitter @9t9knives and on facebook here

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Chefs Council: Anjoleena Griffin-Holst, Wine

"My philosophy is simple," she says.  "Wine should be fun, not intimidating, upscale, but also
accessible."  It is this philosophy and a love of life that led us to ask Anjoleena Griffin-Holst to be serve on our Chefs Council.

A native Californian, Anjoleena now makes her home in New Jersey.  For the past eight years, she has worked at the Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa as the Wine Director, carefully curating over 42,000 bottles of wine, training staff, and basically overseeing all things wine on the property, helping to make and keep the Borgata one the finest destination hotels on the Eastern Seaboard.

As of February of this year, she has embarked on her own venture, Liquid Side of Life, consulting for those who may not recognize the value and strength of a great sommelier and beverage manager and what they can do to maximize their profitability and the guests' enjoyment.  She embraces the entire spectrum of the beverage business from water, to coffee, to wine and reminds people that the beverage that accompanies a meal is not an afterthought.  Overall she is a consummate professional who challenges and trains to give the guest a phenomenal experience every time and we are grateful to have her on our Chefs Board.



Monday, April 14, 2014

Not All Fun and Games...Is it time to take the industry more seriously?

Have you noticed something about the economy lately?  Have you noticed who was getting hit the hardest and why?  Regardless of where you stand politically, it is pretty easy to see that the service industry and more specifically the culinary sectors was one of the hardest hit sectors.  People stopped going out to eat for a while.
For the most part, the restaurant business is very transient.  For a great many, it is a temporary gig that pays the bills, especially when we talk about the service part of it.  Servers come and go and people bartend on the weekends to make ends meet.  Turnover is very high.  The back of the house, is a different story a lot of times.  When we look at how much of a skill and how many years of work goes into cultivating that ability, we see that it is not all fun and games back there and we don't work for tips.
It is one thing for a server to come in on a Friday night and walk with some much needed cash, but for the most part, the line cook is a full timer.  A well managed kitchen calls for the cutting of hours when it is slow yet still making sure that the guest is getting what they pay for.  It is a fine line to walk.  A lot of this plays into morale and mindset of the line worker.   It is a different thing from most industries to walk in to work and wonder if you are going to have to go home early if not enough people come in.  Sure, you know that going in, when you decide to go into the business, but a down economy has a more immediate effect than most businesses and most restaurants have to trim fat in more ways than one.
I have had bad nights on the line and in front of the house.  A twenty top at the door almost made me want to walk out one night but that is a long story.  The bottom line is that it is a tough business and there is a certain dedication that has to come with it but how do you do what you love and still be able to pay the bills?
A lot more businesses are offering a lot more in the way of basic needs and security.  A lot more are investigating and following through with better insurance and more perks.  I once worked for a major hotel chain that offered health insurance, travel benefits, and (my favorite) the ability to transfer from location to location as long as you were an employee in good standing.  Still, a lot of the little guys can only offer a shift meal and a paycheck every other week.
What is possible though?  Is is possible for people to have a 401(K) that follows them from job to job?  Health insurance?  I think so.  It works with other places and other industries, why not with the culinary biz?
People all over the country are taking leaps of faith.  They are banking on their skills and the idea that their buddies aren't kidding when they say that they make the best brownies in the world.  They are investing in cute little boutique cafe's, renting equipment, and scouring sales from their already failed predecessors for plates and forks.  Don't get me started on the number of food trucks out there now and soon to be rolling off the line.  How many other businesses are doing this?
I am not going to say that cooking has FINALLY come into its own. That happened MANY years ago.  Trends come and go and when we look back we are glad that some of them left (I am looking at you fondue!)
I guess what I am saying, is that it is time that we start getting serious about our industry.  I know there are some fantastic chefs out there who work very hard at what they do.  It takes a lot of work to not only make things taste good and look good, but also to not poison people en masse.  Still, there is an image that we are having too much fun for this to be hard work.  But I digress...
So the question is, how do we do what we do, have fun, and make a living?  We work just as hard as your average bank teller and in some cases construction worker, but we have to ask, if it is possible to have a bit more security like they do?



Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Infusions of All Kinds

(Author's note...please drink safely and responsibly and DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE)

Today I have learned many lessons about infusions but not enough to tell you anything major, yet.  I had a friend come into town a few days ago to help me move and he promptly took up residence on the couch in my new apartment.  Being a fellow chef, I could see he had designs on the kitchen also and soon, it too was annexed.  This was a happy sort of invasion that involved numerous bottles of liquor, fruit, spices, and fun.  I soon learned a couple of things.  First, though they seem miles apart in a restaurant, there is not a lot of difference between the bar and the kitchen. Second, the person who thought, "I like (insert booze of choice here) and I also like (insert almost ANYTHING else here)." is to be praised.

A good spirit does a lot of things.  It makes you sing better, more confident, it even makes you look better.  Okay, maybe it doesn't do all/any of those things but being a relatively neutral spirit, it does lend itself to a lot of things and is able to capture, if done correctly, the essence of things that are just dropped into it and left to sit for a while.

Infusing is not to be entered into lightly.  One of the core pieces of advice that each recipe called for was starting with a cheaper brand of spirit so that you do not waste the good stuff or your time on mistakes.  The distiller has done all the hard work and this is what we would call a "last mile" problem or an "after market" addition.  Get good at it and then get the good stuff.  Then there is the argument that the good stuff needs no modification, but in my humble opinion, the better the product, the better the result.

The major thing that I learned was that there is only a basic science to the whole thing.  By that I mean that there is very little that you can't do and a lot of it depends on your tastes.  When we look at all cooking and food related things, a lot of it is very subjective.  My friend loves coffee, so he made an infusion of coffee beans using a roast from a large chain nearby.  I have a manual pepper mill that he took upon himself to use to just barely crack the coffee beans and put into a mason jar and top off with vodka.  He sealed it and and would shake it up every so often when he would walk into the kitchen.

Then, two days later, he strained the mixture through a coffee filter and voila; vodka that tastes like coffee.  I had to add a little sugar to mine, but the now brownish opaque mixture, much like regular coffee or tea, this vodka was steeped in coffee.  Vodka tastes like nothing to me, and by nothing, I mean that it has very little intrinsic characteristic.  It does not taste like juniper berries like gin and do not get me started on tequila or rum.  That is vodka's charm.  I tend to drink it cold and straight, served neat (without ice).  The same is true of moonshine for me.

I am not a liquor officianado, but that is what this post is all about.  Did I mention that liquor makes you smarter?  Well, after a few shots of this stuff I started getting smarter and more thoughtful....even philosophical.

Coffee vodka infusion led me to think about my old stomping grounds in NY and how much I craved a Cuban coffee and a Jamaican beef patty from the bodega on the corner.  I added a little sugar to the shot and settled for a big thick sliced ham and cheese sandwich with lots of cheese and pickle and some red onion.  Close enough?  Not really, but it made me think about who I am here.  I improvise.

There was a heady aroma of various things in my house and I dared not look at the mess in my semi new kitchen, but I began to think about how a good infusion is taking the best of what you like about something and adding it to another and creating something that is new yet still with the characteristics of both.  This is what comes of drinking at noon in a new town.

Peaches!  A lot of people do not know that South Carolina produces more peaches than Georgia, but Georgia has a more powerful marketing team.  The peach infused moonshine made me want to go swimming for some reason, but not really swim, just be by a body of water.  It was an overcast and there was a briskness to the day, but still, a sip of this made me think of summer.  Ironically, I shivered at the thought of how hot it was going to be this summer.  I took the shot and ate the ice cold peach that had been in the moonshine for a couple of days.  I was tempted to grill the peaches.  I was tempted to grill a lot of things.

Bacon! It had to be done.  When I saw the bottle of bourbon on the table I knew there had to be something special waiting for me.  Three pieces of thick cut bacon floating in a brown mason jar full of brown liquid.  There was a meniscus of lard at the top of the jar when we took off the lid.  This where I decided to take it to another level.    Choices were being made.  The bourbon was good enough.  The bacon came through very well.  Then I grabbed some blackberries and muddled them in the bottom of a glass and poured the mixture over it. I think this would be considered the entree drink.

I was out to create an infusion of my own; with my own life. I was beginning to think about how I, a little girl from New York, was going to bring new things to the south and, in turn, soak up what the south had to offer and make it my own and a part of me.

Finished the night with a vodka s'mores.  I would have to say that of the bunch, this was my favorite, or maybe it was because I had four drinks prior to this one?  I wanted to go camping after the first sip.  I could smell oak fires burning and pine and though none of these things were in the vodka, the scents were just as real.

My friend doesn't think that I will last here.  He jokingly tells me that the south will wear me down.  I can already feel it beginning to seep into me.  We are going to see how much I am able to absorb from creating this and all the talented people I am going to be working with.  Think about what you absorb from the world around you!









Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Hunger in America...

http://harvestamericacues.com/2014/02/11/no-one-should-ever-be-hungry-in-america/
This article made me think and it is good to think, but shouldn't that thought be combined with action?

I have a lot of skills and I think that the beauty of each lies in just doing the thing and doing it well.  As a photographer, my hope to take a true picture.  As a chef, I am supposed to feed people.  Yes, I would like to do each of these things well, but the calling is to actually do them.  Right?

There are a lot of people in the world going hungry in the world right now.  We live in a world where one in six people is going hungry at night and yet we are also known for throwing away nearly half of our food every day.  I am horrible at math but I think there is something wrong with that.

We found a little piece of unused land so now we have the "where" what about the the rest?


When?  There is a long growing season in SC.  It begins in March with long sunny days that go long into October for traditional grow, and could be longer if done correctly, with year round growing of overwintering vegetables and more.  But that's the future.  Let's talk about what has to happen today.  Major issue is getting the support for the thing to begin with.

Who... Us, me, you, and every other hand that we can get in on it.  People who stay in the shelters, "guests of the city" (aka min. security inmates), officers who work in the community.  Students, elderly, youth, and anyone with an able body and desire to help.  Can't come out? Donate so that we can buy seeds, hoses, buckets, gloves, and whatever else. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/99knives/x/6821972

What...what not?  We are going to do this well but cheap.  We are going to call on people in the community to help build this and do it in a very ecologically sensitive way.

How...It is just going to take a lot of work but it is not like it has not been done before.  People have been farming for thousands of years.  It is just going to take a little time.  Take some seeds, put them in the ground, watch them grow.  People should not be hungry in America.